The idea of grapes being cultivated in the state of Florida for wine production may be hard to grasp. Still, wine grapes were grown there before any other state in the US, and for some historians, it is considered the birthplace of American wine.
History of Florida’s Wine Industry
The first known wine production in Florida has been attributed to the French Huguenots, who in 1564 settled in modern-day Jacksonville and made wine from the native Florida grape Muscadine. Others believe wine production started with the Spanish missionaries who colonized St. Augustine and planted grapes to make sacramental wine for religious services.
The hot, humid tropical climate makes producing wine in Florida difficult. Still, in 1923, after many failed attempts to produce wine, the state established the Florida Grape Growers Association (FGGA). In conjunction with University of Florida researchers, FGGA helped to develop hybrid grape varieties suited to the Florida climate and resistant to devastating crop pests. With the development of these new species, the Florida wine industry started to take root, but it would be another fifty years before it really took off.
In 1978 the Florida state legislature passed the Florida Viticultural Policy Act and established the Center for Viticulture and Small Fruit Research at Florida Agriculture and Mechanical University to support the development and promotion of a viable viticulture industry in Florida. This Act also established the Florida Farm Winery Program. To become certified a farm winery must meet the following requirements: 1) sell less than 250,000 gallons of wine annually, of which 60 percent must be made from state-grown grapes, 2) maintain a minimum of five acres of owned or managed land in Florida that produces commodities used in making wine, and 3) be open to the public for tours, tastings, and sales at least 30 hours weekly.
By 1991, there were only three certified wineries, and many who wanted to participate could not because they produced wine using fruit other than grapes. In 2012 the legislature amended the Viticulture Act for certification to require the use of state “agricultural products” when producing wine. The change opened Farm Winery Certification up to fruit producers and allowed them to label their products as wine. It created a whole new segment of the industry.
Florida Wine Grape Varieties
Despite using fruits like mangos, blueberries, and strawberries at some wineries, the grape Muscadine remains the “king” of wine production in the state. With over 300 strains of the Muscadine grape, either cultivated or bred by researchers for commercial use, it provides wineries with many wine making options and styles. Muscadine is a thick skinned grape that can handle the hot Florida climate and is resistant to mold and fungal diseases. It is also versatile and can produce medium to full bodied white, red, and rose wine ranging in taste from dry to sweet.
Traditional grape varieties (Vitis Vinifera) such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Merlot do poorly in tropical climates and cannot fight grapevine disease, like Pierce’s disease, which is prevalent in Florida. So, many certified farm wineries purchase Vinifera grapes or juice from other parts of the US or the world to make some of their wines.
Wine Tourism
The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services website lists twenty-one Certified Farm Wineries across the state of Florida, with new applications being accepted. The Florida Wine and Grape Growers Association (FGGA’s new name) considered creating a Florida Wine Trail that tourists could use to visit the farm wineries. However, they realized the wineries were geographically dispersed across the state, making it difficult to connect them with a promotional “Wine Route.”
Instead, to attract customers, wineries were encouraged to create “Florida Experiences” with lodging, restaurants, and recreational activities. Certified Florida Farm Wineries qualify as a tourist attraction and in addition to directional signage and advertising logos, are also eligible to receive reimbursement for harvest festivals and promotional costs.
My Wine Travels in Florida
In March 2020, just before the COVID-19 pandemic, I had the opportunity to visit Flagler Beachfront Winery, a Certified Farm Winery. I was surprised to see a winery in this beach town about 25 miles north of Daytona and discovered they had a wide array of wines made from Muscadine and international grape varieties and other fruits. The winery also offers food and a beautiful ocean view.
Menu at Flagler Beachfront Winery, FL.
Kem Tarsitano is the owner and winemaker at Flagler Beachfront Winery and has over twenty years of experience in the wine industry. He was formerly a professor of viticulture and enology at Kent State University and continues to work as a vineyard consultant, lecturer, and wine judge. He also owns and operates Tarsitano Winery in Conneaut, Ohio, near Lake Erie, where he produces estate grown wines from his vineyards.
The big tourist attraction and marketing twist at Flagler Beachfront Winery is their “Wine Slushies,” 100% wine or wine and fruit, frozen and served in a tumbler. The slushies were not appealing to me, but they were doing a brisk business the day I was there. I did, however, purchase two bottles of wine, a Chardonnay and a red blend, and found them both to be of high quality and delicious.
Next Month, I am headed to St. Augustine, Florida, and look forward to visiting San Sebastian Winery. Noted for pioneering the development of premium, sparkling, and dessert wines from Muscadine grapes. Its wines have won well over 700 awards at last count. Keep an eye on my Vivino account for details on my visit.
See all of the Fifty States of Wine articles here: https://alwayssharingwine.com/category/asw-blog/fifty-states-of-wine.
